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Wednesday 6th July  Israel

Reasonable hotel charges

We both enjoyed a good sleep last night and have our last breakfast in the hotel this morning.

We then go the lobby and settle our bill for our room service meal. It comes to US$11 a day. Very reasonable we think.

The hotel accidentally include our daily tariff as well on our bill printout. This is the prepaid part, paid for by Sinbad Tours. It is only US$55 a day (NZ$82), for the two of us, including breakfasts. Seems very cheap. I suspect Sinbad added quite a bit more on top of that.

Our return to Amman in Jordan

We have to return to Amman in Jordan today, in order to fly from there to Egypt.

Our driver is on the dot time wise as usual. It is Imad again. Today he has a big new bus.

He tells us he taking us to the hot Jordan River Israel-Jordan border crossing where we were stranded a week ago. So it would appear that the mistake of last week was the fault of Sinbad Tours, not the Jordan tour operator.

The bus is quiet and comfortable. It takes us about two hours to reach the crossing.


Jordan River border crossing.

We have to wait about an hour at the border crossing for our shuttle bus to arrive. Then we ride the five minutes over to the Jordan side of the border crossing. It’s now about 11.30am.

We meet the same older guide as before and are happy to again have our same driver Hussein.

He is the young Moslem man who explained so much about Jordan customs to us last week. They drive us into the city of Amman, about an hour distant from the border crossing.

We arrange a tour of Amman

As our flight does not leave until 8.30 tonight, we ask our guide if he can arrange to give us a tour of the city of Amman. He consults with Hussein and then says we can have him as guide and Hussein as our driver for US$30 each. We agree to this and thus begins a fascinating half day tour.

The weather in Amman is warm and sunny but not hot. We are first taken to a hill-top ruin of an old palace complex and temple, dating back to Roman days. Here we have to hire another guide (see photo below) which costs us US$7 each. From these ruins we can see spectacular views of Amman, a city of two million people.

Most of the buildings are white stone. Our guide tells us that all new buildings are required to be made of white limestone for appearance sake, to match the old. The city has very few trees.

We can see the curved stone seating of an old Roman theatre below us. According to our guide it is still used for sports events today.


View of Amman from the hilltop, with the old Roman theatre below.
 The man is our palace ruins guide.


More views of Amman from hilltop.


More views of Amman from hilltop.


More views of Amman from hilltop.

The old palace and temple site and an excellent little museum

Our guide then leads us around the old palace and temple site, explaining things as he goes.

Some of the building walls were constructed using large stones and then cementing smaller stones into the crevices.


Wall construction using various sizes of stones.


Well made Roman burial sarcophagus.

Then we are taken to the excellent little Jordan Archaeological Museum, within the ruins. But before we go in, we see outside, a fragment of a huge stone hand. Our guide tells us it is the only remaining part of a monstrous statue that was originally on the site.

Below is a photo of myself comparing this hand with my hand. You can get an idea of how huge the statue was.


Statue’s hand, compared to mine.


The Jordan Archaeological Museum.

Inside the museum we see another coat of chain mail armour.

Also some genuine oil lamps. One has seven wicks. Most only have one.

There are some samples of the Dead Sea Scrolls on display. Very interesting.

On display are some skulls, one of which has several holes in the crown, two of which look as if they have been drilled.

We also see burial bones, gathered together to fit into one of the small sarcophagus tombs that we saw back in Jerusalem.


Coat of chain mail armour.


Seven wick oil lamp.


Dead Sea copper scroll.


How the rolls looked when found.


Fragments of Dead Sea papyrus scrolls.


Burial method in a small sarcophagus (this is a child).


Skull holes in top.

This has taken us about an hour.

Amman a fascinating city

We return to our taxi where Hussein and our guide are patiently waiting. They then drive us around Amman showing us more of their fascinating city.

These two men are obviously very proud of Jordan and its people and traditions. And well they should be. It seems to be a well run kingdom, with high morale and mostly happy, contented people. It is also very clean.

We see a Toyota Camry car with a completely Arabic number plate. All the other plates we have seen combine ordinary numbers with some Arabic letters. I ask the driver for an explanation. He says that particular car is from Saudi Arabia. It is also painted white, like just about every car from that very hot country.


Downtown Jordan.


Mosques everywhere.


The Jordan flag.


Toyota Camry with totally Arabic number plate.

The most interesting shopping street we have yet seen on our trip

We are next taken to an extremely busy street, both with cars and people. The street is lined with what seem to be endless tiny shops. Our driver and guide park the taxi and Noel and I get out for a walk around.

This is the most interesting street we have seen on our trip. Even anywhere in the world according to Noel.

There are hundreds of tiny shops, selling all kinds of things you could ever think of, on both sides of the street, all with ultra-cheap prices. The shops spill right out onto the pavement with goods for sale often stacked on the footpath.

The typical shop contains three or four male family members, sitting around the entrance talking and inviting you into their shop. There are shoe makers and shoe repairers and repairers of everything under the sun. All kinds of foods, nearly all in their natural raw state or dried. Jewellery, lights, clothes, hardware, houseware, paint, material, cottons, car parts, birds, electrical goods, second hand goods.

Marie would just love this place.

I manage at last to find a proper body-builder’s black singlet for Alec. Very cheap.

Noel finds a nice necklace for Mum.


One of the shops.


Chaotic traffic in the shopping area.

The one-way traffic in this street is never-ending, and the footpaths are crowded with people. Yet Hussein told us it was a quiet time. He said, "It hot this time day. You come back night time. Be double this people."

We do not see any obese people at all among the crowds.


Shoe maker and repairer.

We stop at a little drink shop and have a mug full of squeezed or pureed mango and banana. Half a Jordan Dinar which is 75 cents NZ.

A little further down the road we see a young man feeding long sugar cane stalks into a crusher and sugar juice flowing out the bottom. The cost is about NZ 50 cents for a huge glass. So we have one each. Quite nice. Noel describes the taste as "like sweet beer without the fizz."


The sugar cane drink machine.


A healthy drink.

We then explore some of the other food shops near by. None of them have supermarket type processed foods, all Just a huge variety of basic raw foods – nuts, grains, spices of all varieties and huge quantities of fruit.


Endless supplies of raw foods – no wonder the people all seem healthy.


Lots of dried foods and nuts.


Huge quantities of fruit.

Budgies also seem to be a very popular sale item for some reason. There were hundreds in cages.


Budgies for sale everywhere.

The few shop keepers we speak to seem proud of Amman also.

After about an hour we walk back to our taxi and tour the city some more.

Jordan Queen Adair International airport

Soon it is time to go to Queen Adair International airport, which is a surprisingly long way out of the city, about 35 kms, to catch our plane to Egypt.

While we wait at the airport for our boarding call to Egypt, I try to sneak a surreptitious photograph a Saudi Arabian woman who is completely enclosed, except for her eyes, hands and lower arms, in a black Burka. However she spots me and moves off. Later I manage to get a side picture of her. Her eyes are made up to the nines. Very dramatic, and she had what looked like temporary henna tattoos on her hands and lower arms.


Saudi Arabian woman completely enclosed in a black Burka.

Noel manages to change US$100 into $10’s, $5’s and $1’s which are useful for tips.

We come across some huge packets of cigarettes. I take a picture of Noel holding them.


Huge packets of cigarettes

Also while we are waiting at the airport, the Moslem call to prayer sounds. Soon afterward we notice over in a quiet area of the airport lounge, several Moslem men have removed their shoes, and even socks, and are kneeling or bowing in prayer.


Moslems praying in the airport.

Our crowded Air Jordan flight is half an hour later taking off. Yet despite this, none of the Arabs are in a hurry to find and take their seats. Nearly everybody is relaxed, calm and talkative. Quite different from the normal Western experience.

We take off and head for Cairo again.

 

End of Israel - Jordan segment.

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